Wednesday, 31 October 2018

Almost Gordon 1940s Simplicity dress

Pattern: Vintage Simplicity 3417, bust 34”
Fabric: I had 3 metres; didn’t cut very economically because I pattern matched =)
Haberdasheries: Three buttons, a 30 cm zipper, a belt clasp and waist band

A few years ago I made a 1940s dress using this pattern and I wanted to use it again, but with some alterations. With hindsight, I find the bodice of that dress too long and baggy; even though it’s an authentic look for the 1940s, I just don’t like to look like I’ve got a roll of fat that I don’t! And since I don’t exactly follow today’s fashion, I hardly think I would have been without personal taste at the time ;).
I took 10 centimetres (!!!) out of the bodice width, despite this pattern being for a 34” bust, which should be slightly small for me. Simplicity patterns just had sooo much wearing ease! Because of the additional length in the bodice of my first dress, I expected that I’d have to take some length out as well, but I came to the conclusion that I must have added the additional length myself, which obviously I shouldn’t have done! So I only shortened the skirt, as I did for my first dress as well.

It took me a while to find a suitable fabric; most fabrics I saw in stores didn’t really have a ‘40s vibe for me. Until I read something about plaid (or tartan, as I prefer to call it ;)) fabrics being quite usual at the time, and I remembered this fabric that I’d seen at my local fabric store ages ago, but knowing their turnover rate, I suspected they’d still have. I like it because it’s almost Gordon dress tartan. The thin white lines should just have been yellow! And I already had a matching self-knitted cardigan.
According to the label the fabric was 80% cotton and 20% poly, but as I was working with it I thought: “yeah right!” Sadly, it doesn’t feel like cotton at all, although it can be ironed well without melting.

I pattern matched everything as well as I could, lining up the lines on the different pattern pieces by pinning them in place.

And of course, I had lots of feline sewing help! Thankfully she didn’t attack the fabric and make loops in it.

Because of the colour scheme of this fabric, for once I didn’t have difficulty finding a matchting zipper, buttons and belt fabric!
The buttons are vintage, from about the 1960s, and have a nice story to them. My grandfather was director of a button factory at the time, and my mother was sewing herself a green skirtsuit. So my grandfather had buttons made to match her fabric! I guess these were the surplus buttons; in any case, I liked using them on my dress.

I first wore this dress to an event in remembrance of Market Garden 1944. The re-enactment group War Department did a stunning and impressive portrayal of a field hospital, and I even got to depict a Dutch civilian helping there!

Photo by Menno Bausch

Thursday, 20 September 2018

On making flour for baking

In my previous post I shared a recipe for Dutch pancakes. I don’t make them that often, and one time when I wanted to make them I found that some of the flours I needed had gone stale. I think it’s hard to stock many different flours and use them all up before they go off. I don’t want to use only wheat flour because I think a more varied diet is healthier and also more fun – but yes, it is hard to keep an eye on all those flours.
I read about milling your own flour somewhere before, but I thought that would be a lot of effort. However, since I already owned a coffee grinder (which I had only used for grinding seeds, not coffee!) I thought I’d just give it a go, and it was surprisingly easy and fast! Buckwheat ground down in a few pushes of the button, so a few seconds. Porridge oats did as well. And my simple and cheap grinder didn’t even have a problem grinding whole oats, although the flour from them came out a lot coarser. I’ll probably grind them for a longer time next time.

Buckwheat groats and homemade buckwheat flour

Millet and homemade millet flour

The type of coffee grinder I use for milling flours

Bottomline: if you want to bake with lots of different flours and you don’t need very large amounts of them, try milling your own! Especially if you already have the whole grains in stock, anyway.

N.B. I have tried making quinoa flour but the texture turned out much coarser than that of bought quinoa flour, and it also had rather a strong quinoa flavour, which wasn’t very nice in baking.

Wednesday, 19 September 2018

Echte meergranen pannekoeken (Dutch pancakes recipe)

This post contains a recipe. In case you're confused about what kind of blog this actually is – I’ve stated that I share my creative projects here, and cooking is also creating, so this isn’t stretching things too far, right? ;) As this is about Dutch pancakes or pannenkoeken and may appeal mainly to Dutch readers, I’m continuing in Dutch. But scroll down for an English translation if you want to try this traditional dish from the Netherlands!

Best raar om voor het eerst in het Nederlands te bloggen! Goed, vroeger kocht ik ‘meergranen pannenkoekmeel’ omdat ik dacht dat dat gezonder is. Niet alleen maar tarwe, maar wat meer variatie. Nu weet ik dat ingrediënten op verpakkingen staan in volgorde van de hoeveelheid die erin zit, en op een gegeven moment viel het me op dat de andere granen dan tarwe ná het zout genoemd werden. Dat wil zeggen dat er meer zout in het mengsel zat dan boekweit, maïs en haver. Er werd dus alleen een snufje van de andere granen toegevoegd, om het product meergranen te kunnen noemen... Tegenwoordig lezen steeds meer mensen de verpakking van een product, en dus heeft men een nieuw trucje bedacht: het geheel aan granen noemen en daarna het zout, waardoor de afzonderlijke percentages niet meer meewegen. Slim... Maar van dat soort misleiding houd ik helemaal niet, en dus ben ik zelf mijn pannenkoekmengsel gaan mengen. Echt meergranen, met gelijke aandelen van elk graan! Het recept is bijna zo simpel als het gebruiken van pannenkoekmix; je hebt alleen wel vier soorten meel nodig – of zie mijn volgende post voor nog een tip!

Recept meergranen pannenkoeken (2 personen)

50 g volkoren tarwe- of speltmeel
50 g boekweitmeel
50 g havermeel (ik vind het lekker als dit wat grover is)
50 g maïs- of gierstmeel
½ tsp zout
¼ tsp bakpoeder
1 ei
400 ml melk (of non-dairy milk)

Meng de vier meelsoorten*, het zout en het bakpoeder, en voeg daarna het ei toe. Kluts even met een garde, en voeg daarna, al klutsend, beetje bij beetje de melk toe, tot een vrij dun beslag is ontstaan.
De pannenkoeken bakken zoals gebruikelijk, en beleggen met je gebruikelijke beleg!

Ik vind deze pannenkoeken echt veel meer smaak hebben dan die gemaakt van een standaard meergranen pannenkoekmengsel. Aangezien dat dus vooral uit bloem bestaat, vind ik de pannenkoeken nogal klef. Daarnaast is mijn versie volkoren en dus ook nog veel gezonder. En dit mengsel heeft ook nog minder de neiging om te klonteren! Wat mij betreft dus alleen maar voordelen.

* Minder soorten meel gebruiken, bijvoorbeeld 100 g tarwe- of spelt en 50 g elk van twee andere soorten, of 67 gram elk van drie soorten, kan natuurlijk ook! Dat maakt niet heel veel uit voor de smaak.

I've never taken a photo of my own pancakes! But they look something like this :P (from
Dutch multigrain pancakes recipe (serves two)

The recipe is almost as easy as using premixed flour, but you will need four different flours. Or see my next post for a tip!

50 g whole wheat or spelt flour
50 g buckwheat flour
50 g oat flour (I like this is a little coarser than the other flours)
50 g corn or millet flour
½ tsp salt
¼ tsp baking powder
1 egg
400-450 ml milk (or non-dairy milk)

Mix the four kinds of flour (you can also use fewer kinds, or different proportions of flour; this usually doesn’t affect the flavour that much), the salt and the baking powder. Then add the egg and whisk for a while. Next, while you keep whisking, slowly add the milk until you have a rather thin batter (it should be much thinner than that of American pancakes!). Bake quickly on quite high heat, using your cooking fat of choice.
This recipe makes several pancakes. These are traditionally eaten with bacon, apple and cinnamon, cheese or syrup – bacon and apple can be added to the pan before the batter, cheese after baking the first side and flipping, while syrup is added once the pancake is on the plate. Enjoy!

Wednesday, 29 August 2018

I went paleo (Whole30) for a month – here’s what happened

Very little. Yeah, I’m not going to keep you in suspense and have you read (or at least scroll) to the end of this post to find out. Very little happened, and what happened was mostly negative!

Monkey salad - a nice, plant-based, filling breakfast, but not considered great on this diet...
There are so many accounts of Whole30 changing people’s lives for the better, but of course the W30 website doesn’t give any negative accounts, whereas on the forum, and also other websites, there are lots of people who didn’t get such amazing results, and I’m one of them.

Spinach frittata from the W30 book, one of my staple breakfasts during the diet
I first came across W30 when browsing recipes online, and decided to give it ago. I’m not entirely sure about my motives anymore, but I think my main reason was to find out whether I had intolerances. I did elimination diets before, but never anything this extensive (i.e. cutting out this many food groups), and it seemed an ‘easy’ way to find out whether I was intolerant to anything, once and for all.
Obviously, I read up on what W30 entailed before I started, but nonetheless I wasn’t fully prepared. Mainly for how much meat I had to eat! Because despite the W30 book (which I got mainly for the recipes – and there are a couple of nice recipes in it, which I still make) literally saying that you never have to eat anything you don’t want to while on this diet, I absolutely had to eat more meat than I felt comfortable doing. Before I started, I thought nuts were going to be my go-to food. They’re high in protein and high in calories, which I knew I was going to need. Contrary to most (weight loss) diets, on this one you actually have to work hard to get enough calories, because so many foods are off-limits and so much of the diet consists of veg. And I absolutely love veg, but they’re not that filling, and the idea of W30 is not to be hungry all the time.
The meat content of the diet was my main problem with it. I didn’t mind eating this much veg at all – in fact, I felt quite proud to be eating this much of it! Throughout W30, I had 500 to 750 g of veg a day. Every day! That felt very healthy. I also didn’t mind not being able to eat dairy, grains or legumes. I didn’t miss bread at all. But as I said, despite thinking beforehand that what I couldn’t eat would be the problem, my main problem was the meat. “You may be thinking ‘so much meat’ because we’re asking you to include an animal protein source with every meal. Please note, however, that the serving sizes are actually quite moderate (as low as one palm-sized serving three times a day)” says the book. But that is not a moderate amount! I was a vegetarian for about seven years, and even though I’m now technically an omnivore, I’d only eat meat every other day or so. So having to eat meat (or seafood, for that matter) with two of my three daily meals (the other usually consisting of three eggs and veg – mainly to avoid having to eat still more meat!) was a big deal for me. And unfortunately this is not just a matter of personal taste, either: eating this much animal protein is NOT SUSTAINABLE. I’ve always understood that 75 g of meat per day is all one needs (although perhaps that was an iron requirement guideline? It certainly doesn’t provide enough protein), but also, eating more than that amount puts far too much strain on the earth. There’s no way of sustainably growing that much meat for every person on earth.
Despite my telling myself that I was only doing this for a month, and that I had some credit from all my years of not eating meat at all, I still felt very guilty towards the earth for eating this unsustainably. I was supposed to be doing this for my health, and I don’t want to sacrifice my health. But sacrificing the earth for my health isn’t really an option, either.

Paleo Scottish breakfast
Perhaps this feeling of guilt caused a negative placebo effect which led to the negative effects I experienced. I don’t know. I think it more likely that all the animal protein in my diet was weighing me down, but I can’t be sure about this. In any case, despite expecting ‘carb flu’ (flu-like symptoms caused by going off refined carbs cold turkey), my first days of W30 were remarkably easy. It took some getting used to, but, as with my previous elimination diets, from about day 2 I had this feeling of ‘if I give up now I’ll have to start again, and that would be a waste of this first day that I already did’, and I wasn’t feeling bad, experiencing cravings, or missing sugar or snacks that much. But after about a week I forgot to plan my meals in advance and experienced a form of ‘hangry’ness I had never had before. I wouldn’t quite know what to eat and when I got hungry, rather than feeling angry, I felt utterly devoid of energy and very down. This made it impossible to decide on what to eat, much less cook something (because that is something rather annoying about this diet – almost every meal has to be cooked. You can never just grab something readymade, as those foods will always contain off-limit ingredients). If my husband just told me what to eat (and did the shopping…) I’d feel better almost immediately. As I said, I never experienced this extreme an effect of hunger before, and I found that very strange. This diet was supposed to make you feel pleasantly satiated all day long, which I found very hard to achieve in the first place because I just can’t eat that much in one sitting, but when I got hungry the hunger was much worse than usually!
So at first I had no energy when I was hungry, but after a while the energy shortage was persistent. Usually I have pretty much unlimited energy, but on W30 I was really really tired. I wanted to exercise lots while on the diet, but I hardly managed to do any exercise at all. One day I went walking in the dunes with my hubby, and I found it very hard. Just walking! I felt like I could hardly put one foot in front of the other. (About a month after I was finished with the diet I took a similar walk and had no such problems anymore at all…) I discussed this with a dietician afterwards and she said because I haven’t got that much fat on my body, I just didn’t have enough reserves to get energy from. But wasn’t the point of this diet eating more fat than usually, and getting energy from that fat?!
Some people on the W30 forum advised me to eat more starchy veg to help with my mood, as well as my energy levels. I guess I had been trying not to eat too much starchy veg, because I thought they weren’t considered that great on the diet, but focusing on including them in more of my meals did help. But I still didn’t feel great either mentally or physically, and certainly never got anything like ‘Tiger Blood’, as the book calls the amazing amount of energy one is supposed to get on W30. Also, I kept having trouble not feeling super stuffed after meals, while not getting hungry again too quickly either. Just three meals a day just doesn’t seem to be for me, whereas the amount of protein was actually too much. I also just missed ‘eating moments’ and flavours, and found it very boring to taste food only three times a day.

Steak salad - because you must eat something and this didn't require cooking :P. But it was actually nice!
And then came the introduction! It’s very important to do that seriously as well, because this is the phase that tells you whether you have intolerances. Which means that W30 doesn’t actually last 30 days, but at least 40: at least four reintroduction days with two days in between each time, to let possible intolerance symptoms wear off. I was really really eager to get off the diet by this time (while the authors assume no one really wants to go back to eating normally again because they’re feeling so awesome…) and the only thing that kept me going was that I had already persevered for 30 days and I didn’t want them to be for nothing. It was really great to have a buckwheat pancake on my first reintroduction day though, and then some oats as well! It felt fine to eat them, very healthy in fact, and of course I didn’t notice any adverse effects from eating them. On the next reintroduction day I had legumes, which I thought might cause some problems, but again, nothing happened. Then, on reintroduction day 3 (day 37) I had yoghurt – and was amazed how sweet it tasted! It was just plain Greek yoghurt without any sugar added, but it really tasted sweet to me after 36 days without any added sugar. So the diet did change my palate. Dairy didn’t cause any symptoms either. Finally I reintroduced non-alcoholic beer (also SWEET :o) and gluten containing grains. Then I was done!!! And very thrilled. I was supposed to have gained ‘food freedom’ by overcoming sugar addiction and other unhealthy eating habits, but the main food freedom I felt and relished was not having to focus so much on food anymore and no longer being afraid that I might put something ‘non-compliant’ in my mouth and have to start over (I had plenty of nightmares about this)…

Quiche lorraine with a potato crust
When I was finally done with this frankly ghastly diet and the reintroduction I took my measurements and found that I was actually significantly slimmer than before I started, despite not having exercised at all and having eaten unlimited fat. I could also see this in the mirror! So for me personally I do think it proven that eating fat does NOT make you fat! (As long as it isn’t the bad trans fat, of course.) Which I find interesting. But despite this I didn’t consider for one moment to keep eating like this. Though the diet is presented as lasting only 30 days, what the authors suggest it that you to continue with it indefinitely, but it had way too many negative effects for me. I also think paleo is pretty misguided. So much research points to grains and even legumes helping prevent disease! Despite the huge amounts of veg I ate each day, I didn’t actually eat 30 g of fibre per day :o, so it seems hard to reach that amount without eating any grains. Also, I read about the diets of centenarians in the ‘Blue Zones’ and ALL of these centenarians have pulses in their diets. And grains. And very moderate amounts of meat, if any at all. In fact, there’s a significant difference in longevity between the vegetarians and meat eaters among the generally healthy and long-lived population in the Loma Linda Blue Zone, with the vegetarians living longer. And then there’s research like this. Also, genes do change! One of the main pillars of the paleo diet is that humans are supposed to still be genetically the same as before the onset of agriculture, but Western people have actually developed the ability to digest dairy since then! So that is simply not true. I do have reservations about dairy because it simply doesn’t seem natural for adults to consume something meant exclusively for baby animals, but I don’t think cutting dairy out completely is necessary if you haven’t got an intolerance. I think the positive health effects many people report after switching to a paleo diet must be due to cutting out sugar and refined foods, and focusing more on vegetables, and in spite of adding more animal protein, not because of it!

Bringing my own food to a re-enactment event: salmon & sweet potato cakes from the W30 book, and starchy veg!
So, I learnt a few things about food and my own diet from being on W30, but I’ll never do it again! Everything in moderation (except veg!), and as little processed food and sugar as possible, seems the most sensible diet approach to me!

How to make your own mayonnaise

One thing I did take away from W30 and will probably keep doing, is making my own mayonnaise. It’s really easy to do, gives you complete control of the ingredients (my previous standard mayo, while being one of the better quality readymade ones, still contained rapeseed oil, sugar and EDTA, for instance) and after the diet it turned out I actually liked the flavour better than that of my previous store-bought one. I didn’t think the mayo made according to the recipe in the book had enough flavour though, so I make it as follows.

300 ml mild olive oil (i.e. not extra virgin)
1 egg (at room temperature)
¾ tsp mustard (not powder)
½ tsp salt
Juice of one lemon
2 tsp white vinegar

First, immersion blend a couple of tablespoons of the olive oil with the egg, mustard and salt. When the ingredients have mixed well, add the rest of the olive oil in batches. The mixture should start thickening quickly. Once you think it’s got the right consistency, add the lemon juice and vinegar either by immersion blending or just stirring in. In the fridge, this should keep at least until one week after the best before date of the egg, but I find it usually keeps even longer.