Tuesday, 30 May 2017

Wool Regency jacket with patchwork lining


Pattern: improvised
Fabric: Purple wool, lots of scraps for lining
Haberdasheries: 2,5 m narrow tape for drawstrings

A few years ago I made my first working class or camp follower’s Regency outfit, including a wool jacket, but I was never quite happy with how the jacket turned out. Now I’ve made a few alterations to it, and also added lining in the way it would have been done in the day – that is, using leftover pieces of fabric.

Three examples of patchwork lining from the period:

http://www.metmuseum.org/art/collection/search/155096?img=1&imgno=3&tabname=related-objects
https://www.augusta-auction.com/component/auctions/?view=lot&id=9044&auction_file_id=10
 
https://whitakerauction.smugmug.com/Spring2013/Clothing/ID-22-285/i-qqsvPLD

And here's my patchwork lining:



Some of the ‘scraps’ I bought especially for this purpose, but I also used the leftovers of my patterned fichu, pockets and a knitting huswife. So I was limited by the size and shape of the fabric, and it was actually quite a puzzle to put all the pattern pieces together.

A nice detail, I think, is that you can see a different lining fabric inside each sleeve when I wear the jacket.



Because I wanted this jacket to be warm, I initially made the neckline quite high. But besides not looking particularly elegant (and even as a camp follower, one can strive to look elegant!), a high neckline is just not typical for the Regency period. So I lowered the neckline by about 4 cm, and took some fabric out of the back panel to make the sleeves start neatly on the shoulders, rather than hanging off them a bit (the only downside to this is that the sleeves, which were very long, another typical Regency thing, are now a bit shorter). I also added different drawstrings at the neckline and at the waist, using the Katia Tahiti knitting yarn that I bought for the previous campfollower’s jacket I posted. It matches these lining fabrics nicely.



And worn with an apron.


This earlier picture is just one example of this typical manner of wearing the apron, crossing the straps at the back and tying them at the front. This was probably done because working class women didn’t have a maid to tie the straps at the back!

Saturday, 29 April 2017

Red linen Regency jacket


Pattern: Past Patterns #031, 1796-1806 front closing gown, heavily modified
Fabric: Dark red linen, coarser natural-coloured linen for lining
Haberdasheries: 3 pairs of hooks and eyes, 1.5 m narrow tape
A first: Constructing and lining a Regency jacket entirely authentically



This camp follower’s jacket was a UFO for years. I don’t even remember when I started making it, but I just didn’t think it was turning out right, and that put me off finishing it.
Then I wanted to use it for the March challenge of the Historical Sew Monthly which I briefly took part in in 2015, but decided to quit that. I promised myself a while ago that I wouldn't set deadlines for myself anymore because they make sewing stressful and definitely no fun for me, and this sewalong provided a fresh deadline every month. I really don't want that!

I think that while this pattern has really nice parts, like the lovely kite-shaped back panel, and the instructions for the well-fitting fichu, its waistline is much too low. This is a pet peeve of mine as far as Regency reproductions are concerned, anyway – the main characteristic of the fashion of this period is that high waistline, after all! – so I always try to get my waistline properly high, and the bodice fitting quite tightly, rather than hanging in any way. Consequently, I modified the pattern quite a bit, removing 6 cm from the lower edge of the bodice.
As I didn’t want puffy sleeves, I used a smaller version of the sleeve than I did of the bodice, and lengthened the sleeves as well.

I really like the fact that the historical construction of this pattern creates a slightly recessed back panel, so I followed the instructions for the sewing and lining technique to a tee. I also topstitched the back panel by hand (the demotivating part of which is that if one does it neatly enough, it looks like a sewing machine was used!). But I didn’t find the instruction on how to create those nice square lines between the sleeves and the bodice particularly enlightening. In any case, I put the sleeves in and ripped them out again several times, but did not manage to create anything quite like in the pattern picture. If anyone knows how to do this, I’d be interested to know!


My annoyance over the sleeves was one reason why this project UFOed for so long, but recently I picked the jacket up again and had some inspiration about things I chould change to make myself like it enough to wear it. Firstly, I used one width of fabric for the skirt part of the jacket, and that isn’t enough to make it stand out nicely. Too little fabric gives a column-like shape. So I used my leftover fabric to add 50 cm more width, and moved some of the pleats to the side of the jacket as well.
Secondly, the length of the jacket wasn’t right. I came across this information on proportions in clothing (saying that in clothing, two parts of equal length do not constitute a 'harmonious' look, whereas 2:3 and 3:5 are harmonious):

And my jacket was the same length as the part of the dress visible below it. So I shortened the jacket, and as trivial as that may seem, it really made a difference.



For the drawstrings that close the jacket, I wanted to use narrow tape made of a natural material (the authentic option, but also, polyester ribbons tend to come loose), but I could only find bright white tape. Then I found Katia Tahiti knitting yarn in colour 8, which is made of cotton, seems durable, and is just perfect for this purpose! And only €0.09 per m.

 
As the front flap closure, I sewed on three wire hooks and eyes.



Because I started off constructing this jacket entirely historically, I found it a nice challenge to finish it using only old-fashioned techniques, as well. So I finished the raw edges by overcasting by hand. As I was doing this I thought it looked hideous, but now I think it’s a nice historical detail.


I intend to make more working class Regency jackets using this pattern, but I think I will start over with the pattern, making another toile and modifying it a bit differently. For instance, I won’t make the shoulder straps wider next time (no idea why I did that anyway!), and I’ll leave the bodice slightly longer, to make my back look a bit narrower. It’s 1817 now anyway, when waistlines were descending again!

Wednesday, 26 April 2017

Two Regency fichus


Pattern: Single thickness neckerchief (included in Past Patterns #031, 1796-1806 front closing gown)

Fabric: about 75 cm of blue cotton and about 85 cm of white muslin

Haberdasheries: none!
 
As with my previous fichu, I used the ‘Single thickness neckerchief’ pattern included in Past Patterns #031. I am now trying to get more items in my re-enactment wardrobe in colours that actually suit me, so I wanted a blue fichu, but also a white one, to match my new ruffled cap, a present from Welmode =). I hand hemmed both fichus in the car on the way to Disneyland Paris and back, and was happy to return from this short trip with nice memories as well as two finished items!

The blue fichu is a bit smaller than the white one (more so than it seems in the photos). The pattern says to cut a square of 74 to 82 cm and then halve it, and the fichu is supposed to be cut on the bias. I didn’t do that with my previous fichu because I used a patterned cotton for it and didn’t want the pattern to go askew, and forgot about the bias, so while I thought I bought plenty of the blue cotton, it was in fact only just enough. However, the blue fichu fits well and stays in place well without the need to pin it to my clothes. The white fichu is actually on the large side, but because of the thin fabric, that isn’t an issue, either.



In my previous fichu, I replaced the pin that holds the pleats in place by a few stitches, and didn’t use pins here, either. I didn’t really like the idea of having a pin at the back of my neck, and this is handier for laundering as well.